SOUTH AFRICA'S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE
DIGITAL ISSUE 15C | 2026
Welcome to Issue 15C!
As summer heats up across South Africa, this edition focuses on keeping our dogs safe, healthy, and comfortable during the warmer months and beyond.
We open with Atlas’s inspiring story – a Belgian Malinois–Boerboel mix rescued by TEARS Animal Rescue, who has overcome unimaginable hardship and is now ready for his forever home. From there, we dive into practical summer cooling strategies, tackle the hidden threat of hookworm, explore why kibble size really matters, and provide guidance on supporting senior dog muscle health and teaching reliable recall.
Our Ask DQ section addresses your most common training challenges, from housetraining and lead pulling to separation anxiety. As always, please remember that the information we share is meant to complement professional veterinary and behaviourist care, not replace it.
Thank you for being part of the DQ community. Wishing you and your dogs a wonderful, safe summer.
Lizzie and
the DQ team xxx
Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor
Designer | Mauray Wolff
DIGITAL ISSUE 15C | 2026
CONTENTS
Meet Atlas
Rescued Belgian Malinois-Boerboel mix needs a loving home
Cooling strategies for hot summer days
Creating a cool environment at home
Hookworm in dogs
A hidden threat
The right bite
Why kibble size and formula matter more than we think
Staying strong in the golden years
Supporting your senior dog's muscle health
Teaching a reliable recall
Building a strong come command in all environments
Ask DQ
Your questions answered
Products we love
Shopping
TEARS Animal Rescue works with the underprivileged communities in the South Peninsula to help responsible pet owners keep their pets fed and healthy at home. They provide vital pet food support to families struggling to put food on the table and operate a TEARS Mobile Clinic that spays animals and helps community pets stay healthy. A few years ago, the Mobile Clinic team found a starving, chained-up Belgian Malinois-Boerboel mix on the brink of death. The dog was surrendered to TEARS Animal Rescue, saving Atlas from a life of abuse.
Atlas weighed a mere 16 kg when he was brought in, and he had ehrlichiosis, a life-threatening tick-borne disease. Despite his emaciated state and the painful chain-related wounds he suffered, Atlas underwent an incredible transformation. His weight doubled (he weighs a healthy 30kg), and he has emerged as a gentle and energetic dog. Now, TEARS is seeking the perfect family to adopt this special animal and give Atlas the security and love he deserves.
TEARS Operations Manager, Mandy Store, says, "When Atlas arrived at TEARS, his condition was critical. His recovery journey embodies the essence of our mission at TEARS. We believe that every animal deserves a second chance at a happy and fulfilling life. Despite his traumatic past, he exudes a joy for life that is infectious. From day one, he embraced every new experience with boundless enthusiasm, and it's been an honour for us to witness his recovery," says Store. “Now we are desperate for this wonderful boy to find a loving home.”
TEARS volunteer, Cath Antonizzi, who often walks Atlas, had this to say about him, “He is an absolutely gorgeous, strong boy and would be a loyal protector. He would be perfect for someone who knows big dogs and has space for him to run. He is constantly on alert for anything that moves in the bushes, looking for things to catch. We often have to command him to drop a tortoise, which he immediately does. He has good recall. He loves the beach and the water, and he loves to fetch sticks you throw for him. Once he gets to trust you, he is very affectionate, and you’ll often see his little docked tail wagging,” she says.
The perfect home for Atlas would be one without other big dogs and no cats. As he is a big boy, a house with a large garden would be perfect, with an owner who enjoys taking him for walks in the mountains or on the beach. He loves being close to his people and would need someone at home with him, at least in the early stages, to help him settle in. Ideally, he’d love to be with someone who has the time and energy to give him all the love, security and attention this clever, loving dog needs. If you have an adventurous spirit and a loving heart, and these criteria sound like you, please consider welcoming Atlas into your home and being part of his ongoing tale of triumph.
ABOUT TEARS ANIMAL RESCUE
TEARS is a pro-life, non-profit organisation established in 1999 (registered in terms of Section 18A of the Income Tax Act) whose core aim is to rescue, treat, rehabilitate, reunite and rehome lost, abandoned, abused, and neglected companion animals and to educate pet owners and the youth living in the under-resourced communities within which we operate.
We strive to meet the needs of the low-income communities in the Southern Peninsula by providing:
- free sterilisations and subsidised medical support that includes vaccinations, deworming, and parasite control
- access to two TEARS mobile clinics that offer primary healthcare and pet care support.
- access to the TEARS Veterinary Clinic, offering free and subsidised veterinary care to our welfare beneficiaries for almost any condition, illness, or injury.
TEARS remains the only facility in the Cape Peninsula’s far South available seven days per week, including an after-hours mobile clinic service until 9 pm, to treat the hundreds of animals who need treatment each month for various conditions, illnesses, and injuries.
Please visit tears.org.za/dogs for adoption queries.
Facebook: @TEARSAnimalRescue • Instagram: @tearsanimalrescue • Website: www.tears.org.za
Cooling strategies for
hot summer days
Creating a cool environment at home
South African summers can be brutally hot. When temperatures soar above 35 degrees C and the sun beats down relentlessly, keeping your dog comfortable becomes a daily challenge. Unlike humans, who can sweat effectively, remove clothing, or adjust thermostats to their comfort, dogs depend entirely on us to provide a cool environment and help them manage the heat.
Heat stress is not just uncomfortable for dogs – it is dangerous. Dogs overheat far more easily than humans, and heatstroke can progress from mild distress to a life–threatening crisis within minutes. Brachycephalic breeds (pugs, bulldogs, boxers), thick–coated dogs, overweight dogs, and senior dogs face particularly high risk, but any dog can suffer heat stress in extreme conditions.
Fortunately, with some planning and simple strategies, you can create a cool, comfortable home environment that helps your dog stay safe and content even on the hottest summer days. This guide covers practical cooling solutions from free or low–cost DIY options to more significant investments, frozen treat recipes your dog will love, and whole–house strategies for managing indoor temperature without breaking the bank.
UNDERSTANDING CANINE COOLING PHYSIOLOGY
Before implementing cooling strategies, understanding how dogs regulate temperature helps you make effective choices.
HOW DOGS COOL THEMSELVES
Dogs primarily cool through panting, which evaporates moisture from their respiratory tract and mouth. This process works well in dry conditions but becomes less effective when humidity is high – moisture–saturated air prevents efficient evaporation, meaning dogs pant harder without achieving adequate cooling.
Dogs also dissipate some heat through their paw pads, which have sweat glands, though this contributes relatively little to overall cooling. Finally, vasodilation – bringing blood closer to the skin surface – helps transfer heat from the body core to the environment, but only if the environment is cooler than the dog’s body temperature.
The problem: when ambient temperature approaches or exceeds a dog normal body temperature (38–39 degrees C), and humidity prevents efficient evaporative cooling, their thermoregulation system becomes overwhelmed. This is where our interventions become critical.
HIGH–RISK DOGS
Certain dogs need extra cooling support:
- Brachycephalic breeds: Shortened airways make breathing and panting less efficient. These dogs can overheat even in moderately warm conditions.
- Thick–coated breeds: Double coats provide insulation that works both ways – keeping dogs warm in winter but also trapping heat in summer.
- Dark–colored dogs: Dark coats absorb more solar radiation than light–colored coats, increasing heat load.
- Overweight dogs: Excess body fat acts as insulation and makes movement more laborious, generating additional heat.
- Senior dogs and puppies: Less efficient thermoregulation at both ends of the age spectrum.
- Dogs with heart or respiratory conditions: Compromised circulation or breathing capacity reduces cooling efficiency.
If your dog falls into any of these categories, implement cooling strategies proactively rather than waiting for signs of distress.
DIY COOLING SOLUTIONS
You do not need expensive commercial products to keep your dog cool. Many effective solutions can be made at home with minimal investment.
HOMEMADE COOLING MATS
Commercial cooling mats can be pricey. Several DIY alternatives provide similar benefits:
Damp towel method: Soak a large towel in cool (not ice–cold) water, wring out excess, and lay it flat in your dog’s resting area. The evaporation provides cooling. As the towel dries, re–wet it. Keep a rotation of several towels, so you always have cool ones ready. Place a waterproof mat underneath to protect the flooring.
Frozen water bottle cooling pad: Fill several plastic bottles (500ml to 2–litre sizes) three–quarters full with water and freeze. Wrap frozen bottles in towels or pillowcases and place them where your dog rests. The wrapped bottles provide hours of cooling without being uncomfortably cold against your dog’s skin. Rotate bottles as they thaw, keeping replacements in the freezer.
Rice or wheat bag: Fill a fabric bag or old pillowcase with rice or wheat berries, seal well, and place in the freezer for several hours. This creates a moldable, cold pack that conforms to your dog’s body. The contents do not freeze solid like water, so the pack remains flexible. Re–freeze as needed throughout the day.
Elevated cooling bed: Elevating your dog’s bed allows air circulation underneath, which significantly improves cooling. You can purchase elevated cot–style beds, or DIY by placing a regular bed on a wire rack, plastic crates, or even bricks to create airspace beneath. Combine with damp towels or frozen bottles for enhanced cooling.
WATER–BASED COOLING
Water is your most effective and cheapest cooling tool:
Paddling pools: Children’s rigid plastic paddling pools (not inflatable, as dogs’ claws puncture those) filled with a few inches of water provide hours of cooling. Many dogs will stand in the water, lie down in it, or just put their paws in to cool off. Change water daily to prevent mosquito breeding and algae growth. Position in the shade if possible.
Sprinklers and misters: Set up a lawn sprinkler in your garden. Many dogs enjoy playing in the spray, and even dogs who do not will often walk through it to cool off. For dogs who dislike sprinklers, a fine mist spray (like those used to cool outdoor dining areas) provides gentle cooling without the confronting spray.
Wet coats and towels: Thoroughly wet your dog’s coat with cool water, paying particular attention to the belly, chest, and inner thighs where blood vessels run close to the surface. For thick–coated dogs, work water down to the skin rather than just wetting the surface. The evaporation provides significant cooling. Re–wet as needed throughout the day.
Ice water bowls: Add ice cubes to water bowls throughout the day. Some dogs also enjoy licking ice cubes as a cooling treat. Ensure fresh, cool water is always available – dogs drink significantly more in hot weather.
DIY COOLING COATS AND VESTS
Commercial cooling vests can be effective but expensive. DIY versions work surprisingly well:
Wet T–shirt method: An old t–shirt (human–sized for most dogs), soaked in cool water and wrung out, can be slipped over your dog. Cut or tie it to fit reasonably well. The damp fabric provides evaporative cooling for one to two hours before needing re–soaking. This works particularly well for short–coated dogs.
Bandana cooling collar: Soak a bandana in cool water and tie it loosely around your dog’s neck. The neck has major blood vessels close to the surface, so cooling this area helps reduce overall body temperature. Re–wet every hour or two.
Chamois cloth vest: Chamois cloths (available at automotive stores) stay damp longer than regular fabric. Soak in water, wring out, and drape over your dog’s back and sides. The chamois retains moisture well and provides extended cooling. These are particularly useful for dogs who do not tolerate full vests or shirts.
FROZEN TREATS
Frozen treats serve dual purposes: they are enriching activities that provide mental stimulation while helping cool your dog from the inside. Here are recipes ranging from simple to elaborate.
BASIC FROZEN TREATS
Ice cube variations: Plain ice cubes work, but enhancement makes them more appealing. Try freezing low–sodium chicken or beef broth into cubes or add small pieces of dog–safe fruits (apple, watermelon, blueberries) to water before freezing. You can also freeze wet dog food in ice cube trays for protein–rich frozen snacks.
Frozen yoghurt drops: Plain, unsweetened yoghurt (ensure it does not contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs) can be dropped in dollops onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and frozen. These create small, manageable frozen treats perfect for training or just cooling snacks. Add mashed banana or a spoonful of peanut butter for extra appeal.
Frozen banana slices: Slice a banana, spread it on a tray, and freeze. Simple, healthy, and most dogs love them. Particularly good for dogs who need to watch their weight since banana is naturally sweet without added sugars.
KONG AND PUZZLE TOY FROZEN TREATS
Filling food–dispensing toys and freezing them creates long–lasting enrichment that keeps dogs occupied while cooling them. The effort required to extract frozen contents naturally slows eating, extending enjoyment and providing mental stimulation during hot hours when physical activity should be limited.
Classic Kong filling: Layer small treats or kibble with peanut butter, plain yoghurt, or wet dog food. Freeze overnight. The frozen filling takes 30–60 minutes to consume, keeping dogs engaged. Variation: add a small biscuit or dental chew in the centre before freezing.
Broth popsicles: Fill a Kong or similar toy with low–sodium broth, add a few pieces of cooked chicken or dog–safe vegetables, and freeze. The broth popsicle is both hydrating and cooling.
Frozen meal replacement: Mix your dog’s regular food (kibble or wet food) with a bit of water or broth to create a thick paste. Pack into a Kong, freeze overnight, and give as a meal replacement during the hottest part of the day. This turns eating into a cooling, time–consuming activity.
ELABORATE FROZEN RECIPES
For paw parents who enjoy creating special treats:
Pupsicles: Blend dog–safe fruits (banana, blueberries, watermelon) with plain yoghurt or coconut milk. Pour into ice cube trays, popsicle moulds, or small paper cups. Insert a biscuit or chew stick as a handle if using cups. Freeze overnight. These create portion–controlled frozen treats that look appealing too.
Layered frozen treats: Create layers in containers, freezing each layer before adding the next. Bottom layer: pureed pumpkin mixed with a bit of honey. Middle layer: plain yoghurt with mashed banana. Top layer: chicken broth with cooked chicken pieces. Each layer offers different tastes and textures.
Frozen watermelon boats: Scoop out watermelon flesh (remove seeds), blend until smooth, and pour back into the watermelon rind. Freeze. The frozen watermelon creates an edible bowl of refreshing coolness. Cut into appropriate portions for your dog’s size.
SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS FOR FROZEN TREATS
A few important guidelines:
- Introduce frozen treats gradually if your dog has not had them before. Some dogs have sensitive stomachs.
- Monitor the first few times to ensure your dog does not try to swallow large pieces whole or choke.
- Account for the calories in your dog’s daily intake. Frozen treats are still food and contribute to calorie consumption.
- Avoid toxic ingredients: no grapes, raisins, chocolate, xylitol (artificial sweetener), macadamia nuts, onions, or garlic. When in doubt, stick to plain ingredients you know are safe.
- Some dogs have dairy sensitivities. If yoghurt or cheese causes digestive upset, substitute with broth or pureed fruit.
- Give frozen treats on surfaces that can handle melting water – outside, on tile floors, or on towels. Carpets and wooden floors do not appreciate the puddles.
MANAGING INDOOR TEMPERATURES
Beyond providing your dog with direct cooling solutions, managing your home’s overall temperature makes the environment more comfortable for everyone.
AIR CIRCULATION AND FANS
Fans do not lower the temperature, but they significantly improve cooling efficiency by enhancing evaporation and creating air movement that feels cooler.
Placement matters: Position fans to create cross–ventilation. Open windows on opposite sides of the house and place fans to draw cooler air in and push hot air out. Create a pathway for air to flow through your home rather than just circulating hot air in one room.
Direct cooling: Place a fan near your dog’s resting area. If your dog lies on a damp towel with a fan blowing across them, the evaporative cooling is substantial. Some dogs enjoy lying directly in front of fans; others prefer less direct airflow. Let your dog choose their position.
Safety first: Ensure cords are out of reach and fans are stable and cannot be knocked over. Dogs and fan blades are a bad combination – use fans with protective cages. Never leave unsupervised dogs in rooms with unguarded fans.
Ice and fan combo: Place a bowl of ice or several frozen bottles in front of a fan. The fan blows air across the cold surface, creating a DIY air conditioner. This is surprisingly effective in small spaces, though you will need to replace ice/bottles as they melt.
BLOCKING HEAT ENTRY
Preventing heat from entering your home is more effective than trying to cool it once inside:
Close curtains and blinds: During peak sun hours, close all curtains and blinds on windows receiving direct sunlight. Light–colored, reflective curtains work best. This single action can reduce indoor temperature by several degrees.
External shading: Shade cloth, awnings, or even large umbrellas positioned outside windows prevent the sun from hitting the glass in the first place. This is far more effective than internal curtains because it prevents heat from entering.
Strategic window opening: Open windows during the coolest parts of the day (early morning, late evening) to flush hot air out and bring cooler air in. Close windows and curtains before the sun heat becomes intense.
Insulation and sealing: While typically thought of for winter warmth, good insulation also keeps heat out in summer. Seal gaps around doors and windows that let hot air infiltrate.
CREATING COOL ZONES
Rather than trying to cool your entire home, focus on creating specific cool zones where your dog spends time:
Tile or concrete areas: Many dogs naturally seek out tile floors, bathroom floors, or even concrete garage floors because these surfaces stay cooler than carpeted areas. If possible, give your dog access to rooms with cool flooring during hot days.
Lower levels: Heat rises, so lower levels of your home stay cooler. Basements, if you have one, provide natural cooling. Even ground–floor rooms are cooler than upper levels.
Create a cooling station: Dedicate one room or corner to be your dog’s summer retreat. Combine multiple cooling strategies in this space: tile floor or elevated bed, damp towels or frozen bottles, a fan, curtains blocking the sun, and always–available cold water. Your dog will learn to seek this space when overheating.
AIR CONDITIONING
Air conditioning is the most effective cooling solution, but comes with cost considerations. If you have air conditioning, running it during peak heat provides significant relief. Even setting it to a moderate temperature (25–26 degrees C) rather than very cold (20 degrees C) creates a comfortable environment while managing electricity costs.
If full–home air conditioning is not feasible, consider a portable unit for one room where your dog spends daytime hours. The investment in one portable unit is far less than installing central air conditioning, and cooling one room uses significantly less electricity than cooling an entire home.
For dogs home alone during hot days, this can be the difference between dangerous heat exposure and safety. Do not leave dogs in hot houses while at work without cooling solutions.
ACTIVITY MANAGEMENT
Sometimes the best cooling strategy is avoiding heat generation in the first place by adjusting your dog’s activity patterns.
TIMING EXERCISE
Exercise generates substantial metabolic heat. Walking or playing during peak heat (11am to 4pm) forces your dog’s body to manage both external heat and exercise–generated heat simultaneously – often with poor results.
Shift exercise to early morning (before 8am) or evening (after 6pm) when temperatures moderate. These cooler walks can be longer and more vigorous without heat stress risk. During midday heat, focus on mental enrichment rather than physical activity.
MENTAL ENRICHMENT FOR HOTS DAYS
A bored dog is an unhappy dog, but physical exercise is not safe during extreme heat. Mental stimulation provides enrichment without overheating:
- Frozen Kongs and puzzle toys (discussed earlier)
- Training sessions in air–conditioned spaces – teach new tricks, practice commands, work on impulse control
- Scent games: hide treats around a cool room for your dog to find
- Chew time: provide safe, long–lasting chews that keep dogs occupied
- Calm companionship: sometimes the best activity is simply resting together in a cool space
A mentally tired dog is often as content as a physically exercised one, and mental work generates far less body heat than running and playing.
RECOGNISING WHEN REST IS NEEDED
Some dogs, particularly high–energy breeds, will continue playing and exercising even when dangerously overheated. They do not recognise their own limits. It is your responsibility to enforce rest during extreme heat, even if your dog seems willing to continue.
Signs your dog needs to stop activity and cool down: heavy panting that does not ease with brief rest, drooling more than usual, bright red gums and tongue, reluctance to continue (this is your dog communicating clearly – listen), stumbling or apparent weakness, and disorientation.
If you observe these signs, stop immediately, move to shade, offer water, use cooling strategies (damp towels, fan), and monitor closely. If signs do not improve within 10–15 minutes, contact your vet.
SPECIAL SITUATIONS
BRACHYCEPHALIC BREEDS
Flat–faced breeds (pugs, bulldogs, French bulldogs, boxers, Shih Tzus) struggle significantly more with heat than other dogs. Their shortened airways make breathing difficult even at rest; add heat stress, and they are in genuine danger.
For these breeds, cooling is not optional – it is essential. Air conditioning is not a luxury; it is a safety requirement. If air conditioning is not possible, these dogs need constant access to the coolest areas of your home, fans positioned for direct airflow, frequent use of damp towels and cooling mats, and extremely limited activity during warm weather.
Consider whether summer in your location is safe for brachycephalic dogs at all. In some climates, these breeds simply cannot be maintained safely without significant cooling infrastructure.
THICK–COATED DOGS
Dogs with double coats (Huskies, Malamutes, Samoyeds, many herding breeds) face a different challenge. Their coat insulates effectively, which helps somewhat in heat by creating an air gap, but can also trap heat against their body.
Never shave double–coated dogs down to skin – their coat provides essential protection from the sun and actually helps regulate temperature when properly maintained. Instead, ensure the coat is well–groomed (free of mats that trap heat), brush out shed undercoat regularly, and focus on keeping the skin underneath cool through damp towels, wetting the coat thoroughly to reach the skin, and providing cool resting surfaces.
SENIOR DOGS
Older dogs often have reduced ability to regulate temperature and may have underlying health conditions that increase heat sensitivity. Provide them with the coolest, most comfortable areas of your home. Consider that arthritic dogs may appreciate soft bedding even if tile floors are cooler – use elevated beds or cooling mats on softer surfaces to accommodate both comfort and cooling needs.
Monitor senior dogs closely during heat, as they may not seek cooling solutions proactively or may be less able to communicate distress.
WHEN TO SEEK VETERINARY HELP
Despite best efforts, heat emergencies can occur. Knowing when a situation requires professional help can save your dog’s life.
Contact your veterinarian immediately if your dog shows:
- Excessive drooling or thick, ropey saliva
- Rapid panting that does not slow even at rest
- Bright red, dark red, or purple gums and tongue
- Vomiting or diarrhoea
- Weakness, stumbling, or collapse
- Disorientation or not responding normally to you
- Seizures or muscle tremors
- Loss of consciousness
While waiting for vet care or travelling to the clinic, begin active cooling: move to shade or air conditioning, offer small amounts of cool water if your dog will drink, apply cool (not ice–cold) water to head, neck, belly, and inner thighs, and use fans to enhance evaporative cooling. Do not delay seeking help to cool them at home – start cooling while travelling to the vet.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Observe your dog closely during the summer to understand their individual heat tolerance and preferences. Some dogs love lying in paddling pools; others prefer damp towels. Some will park themselves in front of fans; others find the air movement annoying. Tailor your strategies to your specific dog rather than assuming what works for others will work for yours.
Remember that heat management is not about making your dog enjoy summer – it is about keeping them safe. A dog who seems lazy and lethargic in heat is actually demonstrating good self–preservation by limiting activity. Do not force exercise or activity during extreme heat simply because it is what you normally do. Adapt your routines to accommodate the season.
With thoughtful preparation, consistent application of cooling strategies, and realistic expectations about activity during heat, you can keep your dog comfortable and safe throughout even the most challenging South African summers. The investment of time, effort, and some money into cooling solutions is small compared to the peace of mind knowing your dog is comfortable, and the potential cost of emergency vet care for heat stress.
Hookworm
in dogs
A hidden threat
Hookworms are intestinal parasites that attach to the gut lining and literally drink their host's blood. Unlike many parasites that merely steal nutrients, hookworms actively feed on blood, causing severe anaemia that can be life–threatening, particularly in puppies. A single adult hookworm can consume 0.1 – 0.3ml of blood daily – a seemingly small amount, but when dozens or hundreds of worms infest an intestine, the cumulative blood loss becomes catastrophic.
The parasite's name derives from its curved, hook–like mouthparts, which anchor it to the intestinal walls. These hooks penetrate the gut lining, creating feeding sites that continue oozing blood even after worms detach and move to new locations. The ongoing blood loss from active feeding, combined with continued seepage from old attachment sites, creates the profound anaemia characteristic of severe hookworm disease.
Hookworm infections are common worldwide, though prevalence varies dramatically by region. Warm, humid climates provide ideal conditions for larval survival in soil. In South Africa, particularly in coastal and subtropical regions with sandy soils, hookworm represents a significant health threat to dogs. Puppies and young dogs face the highest risk, though adults can develop severe disease, especially when stressed or immunocompromised.
This comprehensive guide addresses all aspects of canine hookworm disease: understanding the parasite's life cycle, recognising clinical signs, obtaining an accurate diagnosis, implementing effective treatment, and most critically, preventing infection in the first place.
UNDERSTANDING HOOKWORMS
SPECIES AND DISTRIBUTION
Several hookworm species infect dogs. The most common and pathogenic is Ancylostoma caninum, found worldwide in warm climates. This species causes the most severe disease due to its voracious blood–feeding habits.
Ancylostoma braziliense, found in tropical and subtropical regions, also infects dogs but causes less severe blood loss. However, this species more readily infects humans, causing cutaneous larva migrans – itchy skin lesions where larvae migrate through human skin.
Uncinaria stenocephala occurs in cooler climates and causes milder disease. It is found in Europe and northern regions but is less common in South Africa.
The species differences matter for disease severity and zoonotic risk (ability to infect humans). Veterinarians identifying species through faecal examination can predict disease severity and counsel owners about human exposure risks.
LIFE CYCLE AND TRANSMISSION
Understanding the hookworm life cycle explains why these parasites are difficult to eliminate and how they spread so efficiently.
Adult hookworms live in the small intestine, attached to the gut lining. Females produce thousands of eggs daily, which are passed out in faeces. Under appropriate conditions (warmth, moisture, shade), eggs develop through larval stages in soil within two to nine days.
Third–stage larvae (L3) are the infective form. These can survive in soil for weeks or months under ideal conditions. Dogs become infected through multiple routes, making prevention challenging.
Oral ingestion is the most common transmission route. Dogs ingest L3 larvae from contaminated soil, often while grooming paws or investigating the environment. Larvae penetrate the gut wall, migrate through tissues (often reaching lungs where they are coughed up and swallowed), then mature in the intestine.
Percutaneous (skin) infection occurs when L3 larvae penetrate the skin, typically through the footpads. After skin penetration, larvae migrate through the body, as with orally ingested larvae, eventually reaching the intestine.
Transmammary transmission (through the mother's milk) is critically important in puppies. Larvae in the dam's tissues become activated during pregnancy and lactation. They migrate to the mammary glands and pass to nursing puppies through milk. This explains why puppies develop severe infections at only two to three weeks old – before they even contact contaminated soil.
Transplacental transmission (across the placenta before birth) occurs but is less significant than transmammary transmission in hookworm compared to roundworm.
The prepatent period – time from infection to egg shedding – is approximately two to three weeks. During this time, worms are developing but not yet producing eggs, so faecal tests remain negative despite active infection.
HOW HOOKWORMS CAUSE DISEASE
Hookworms cause disease through multiple mechanisms, but blood loss is the primary concern.
Direct blood feeding: Adult hookworms attach to the intestinal mucosa using their cutting teeth and hooks. They rupture capillaries and literally suck blood. The anticoagulant compounds in their saliva prevent blood clotting, allowing continuous feeding.
Ongoing haemorrhage from attachment sites: When worms detach and move to new feeding locations, old attachment sites continue bleeding due to anticoagulant effects and tissue damage. The intestinal lining may have dozens of these oozing wounds.
The cumulative effect is severe. A dog with 100 Ancylostoma caninum could lose 10–30ml of blood daily – a catastrophic amount for a small dog or puppy. This blood loss leads to progressive anaemia (low red blood cell count).
Protein loss also occurs. Blood contains proteins, and chronic blood loss depletes protein reserves. Severe protein depletion causes hypoalbuminemia (low blood albumin), leading to fluid accumulation in tissues and body cavities.
Inflammation and tissue damage from larval migration and adult feeding cause enteritis (intestinal inflammation). This contributes to diarrhoea, poor nutrient absorption, and further weakens dogs.
CLINICAL SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS
ACUTE SEVERE INFECTION (PRIMARILY PUPPIES)
Young puppies, particularly those infected through milk, develop acute severe disease that can be rapidly fatal without treatment.
Pale mucous membranes (gums, inner eyelids) indicate severe anaemia. Gums appear white or very pale pink rather than healthy pink. This pallor is often the first sign owners notice.
Bloody or very dark (tarry) diarrhoea results from intestinal bleeding. The stool may be obviously bloody or black and tar–like (melaena) from digested blood.
Severe weakness and lethargy reflect profound anaemia. Puppies may be too weak to nurse, play, or even stand properly.
Poor growth and failure to thrive occur because severe anaemia impairs oxygen delivery to tissues. Even well–fed puppies fail to gain weight appropriately.
Death can occur within days in severe cases. Puppies with overwhelming hookworm burdens can die from anaemia before intervention occurs, particularly in litters from untreated dams.
CHRONIC INFECTION (PUPPIES AND ADULTS)
Chronic hookworm infection causes less dramatic but still significant disease.
Gradual weight loss or poor weight gain despite adequate food intake is common. The combination of blood loss, protein depletion, and poor nutrient absorption prevents normal weight maintenance.
Intermittent diarrhea, sometimes with dark colour, waxes and wanes. Not all dogs show diarrhoea and some maintain relatively normal stool despite heavy infection.
Mild to moderate anaemia may go unnoticed initially. Gums may appear slightly pale rather than obviously white, making it easy to miss.
Poor coat condition – dull, dry, and lacklustre fur – reflects general poor health and nutritional depletion.
Exercise intolerance and reduced stamina result from anemia impairing oxygen delivery to muscles.
Pica (eating non–food items) sometimes develops. Severely anaemic dogs may eat dirt, rocks, or other inappropriate items, possibly attempting to address mineral deficiencies.
SKIN SIGNS (CUTANEOUS LARVA MIGRANS)
When large numbers of larvae penetrate the skin, they cause dermatitis called cutaneous hookworm dermatitis or ‘ground itch.’
This typically affects footpads and skin contacting contaminated ground. Signs include redness, swelling, itching, and sometimes pustules or crusting on paws and lower legs.
In severe cases, particularly in kenneled dogs on contaminated runs, extensive skin disease can occur alongside intestinal infection.
SIGNS IN ADULT DOGS
Healthy adult dogs with good immune systems often harbour small hookworm numbers without obvious signs. Their immunity limits worm burdens to levels causing minimal disease.
However, stressed, immunocompromised, or heavily exposed adults can develop significant disease. Signs mirror chronic infection in puppies: weight loss, anaemia, poor condition, and intermittent diarrhoea.
Breeding bitches may show signs during pregnancy or lactation when larval activation occurs, though more commonly their puppies show disease rather than the dam herself.
DIAGNOSIS
FECAL EXAMINATION
Faecal flotation is the primary diagnostic method. A fresh fecal sample is mixed with flotation solution, which causes parasite eggs to float to the surface where they can be identified microscopically.
Hookworm eggs are distinctive – oval, thin–shelled, and containing two to eight cells when fresh. Experienced technicians readily identify them, though occasionally they may be confused with other parasite eggs.
However, faecal testing has limitations. False negatives occur commonly because eggs are not shed continuously. A single negative faecal test does not rule out hookworm infection.
The prepatent period problem is critical – puppies severely ill with hookworms acquired through milk may not yet be shedding eggs when first examined at two to three weeks old. These critically ill puppies test negative despite life–threatening infections.
Light infections may shed too few eggs to be detected reliably. Some infected dogs test negative simply because their sample contained no eggs by chance.
For these reasons, veterinarians often treat based on clinical signs even when faecal tests are negative. The risk of missing hookworm infection in an anaemic puppy is too great to wait for positive test results.
BLOOD TESTS
Complete blood count reveals anaemia in hookworm–infected dogs. The anaemia is typically regenerative – meaning the bone marrow is producing new red blood cells to replace those lost, but cannot keep pace with ongoing blood loss.
Packed cell volume (PCV) or hematocrit measures the percentage of blood that is red blood cells. Normal is approximately 37–55%. Hookworm–infected puppies may have PCV below 20%, sometimes even below 10% in severe cases.
Total protein and albumin levels may be low in chronic cases due to protein loss through blood loss and malabsorption.
White blood cell counts sometimes show eosinophilia (elevated eosinophils), a common response to parasitic infections, though this is not specific to hookworm.
CLINICAL DIAGNOSIS
Often, diagnosis is presumptive based on clinical presentation. An anaemic puppy from an untreated dam, showing pale gums, bloody diarrhoea, and weakness, very likely has hookworms even if faecal testing has not been performed or was negative.
Veterinarians may initiate treatment immediately based on clinical suspicion rather than waiting for test results. In severe cases, this is life–saving.
Response to treatment confirms diagnosis. Puppies showing dramatic improvement after deworming, with resolution of anaemia and diarrhoea, retrospectively confirm hookworm as the cause.
TREATMENT
ANTHELMINTIC (DEWORMING) MEDICATIONS
Several medications effectively kill adult hookworms. The most commonly used include:
Pyrantel pamoate is widely used, safe, and effective against adult hookworms. It is available over the counter and is often included in puppy dewormers. However, it does not kill larval stages, so repeat treatments are essential.
Fenbendazole (Panacur) is very effective against hookworms and many other parasites. It is given daily for three to five consecutive days. This extended treatment kills developing larvae as well as adults.
Moxidectin and milbemycin (found in some monthly heartworm preventatives) are effective against hookworms. Regular monthly administration prevents patent infections and kills incoming larvae.
Selamectin and imidacloprid+moxidectin (Revolution/Advocate) provide monthly hookworm prevention as well as heartworm, flea, and other parasite control.
Single treatments rarely cure infections. Eggs and larvae in the environment continually re–infect dogs. Additionally, tissue–dwelling larvae in adult dogs are not killed by standard dewormers – they require extended treatment protocols.
TREATMENT PROTOCOLS
For puppies: Treatment should begin at two weeks of age, repeated at four, six, and eight weeks, then monthly until six months old. This aggressive schedule addresses the transmammary infection the puppies likely harbour.
For adult dogs: Treatment depends on exposure risk. Dogs in endemic areas should be dewormed quarterly or placed on monthly preventatives. Single annual deworming is insufficient.
For breeding bitches: Treat before breeding, then monthly during pregnancy and lactation. This reduces (though may not eliminate) larval transmission to puppies.
For severe clinical disease: Immediate treatment with effective anthelmintics, but deworming alone may be insufficient – supportive care is essential.
Please note: These protocols are for guidance only. Discuss the optimal protocol for your dog with your own vet.
SUPPORTIVE CARE FOR SEVERE INFECTIONS
Severely anaemic puppies need more than just deworming. Supportive therapy is often life–saving.
Blood transfusions may be necessary for critically anaemic puppies (PCV below 12–15%). Donated blood from healthy adult dogs can literally save the lives of dying puppies.
Iron supplementation supports red blood cell production. However, iron alone cannot reverse severe anaemia quickly – transfusion may be needed while iron and the puppy's bone marrow work to rebuild red blood cell numbers.
Nutritional support with high–quality, easily digestible food helps weakened puppies recover. Some may need assisted feeding if too weak to eat normally.
Fluid therapy addresses dehydration, which is common in puppies with diarrhoea.
Hospitalisation may be necessary for severely affected puppies requiring close monitoring and intensive care.
PREVENTION AND CONTROL
ROUTINE DEWORMING PROTOCOLS
Prevention is far easier and more cost–effective than treating established disease. Routine protocols should be followed for all dogs.
Puppies: Begin deworming at two weeks old, repeat every two weeks until 8 – 12 weeks, then monthly until six months old. This schedule addresses puppies that harbour hookworms from transmammary transmission.
Adult dogs: In endemic areas,
deworm quarterly at a minimum. Monthly preventatives (many heartworm preventatives include hookworm control) provide better protection.
Breeding females: Deworm before breeding, monthly during pregnancy and lactation, and ensure puppies are dewormed starting at two weeks, despite the dam's treatment.
New additions: Deworm all new dogs when they join your household, isolate them from other dogs until after several treatments, and test faecal samples.
Again chat to your vet for the best approach for your own dog.
MONTHLY PREVENTATIVE MEDICATIONS
Many monthly heartworm preventatives provide hookworm protection. These products are highly effective at preventing patent infections and breaking the life cycle.
Products containing milbemycin, moxidectin, or selamectin prevent hookworm. Check with your veterinarian about which products are available and most appropriate for your circumstances.
Consistent, year–round administration is crucial. Skipping months allows infections to establish. In warm climates where transmission occurs year–round, continuous protection is essential.
Monthly preventatives are more expensive than periodic deworming but provide superior protection and control other parasites simultaneously (heartworm, roundworm, whipworm, fleas, and ticks, depending on the product).
ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT
Reducing environmental contamination limits transmission, though this is challenging because larvae survive for extended periods.
Prompt faecal removal – at least daily, ideally more frequently – prevents egg development in the environment. Eggs need time to develop into infective larvae, so removing faeces before this happens breaks the cycle.
Avoid damp, shaded areas with sandy soil if possible. These conditions favour larval survival. Keeping grass short, ensuring good drainage, and providing sunny areas for dogs reduces larval burdens.
Concrete or gravel runs in kennels can be sanitised more effectively than grass or dirt. However, they must be cleaned thoroughly and regularly.
Preventing overcrowding reduces transmission. High dog density increases environmental contamination, making control nearly impossible.
Unfortunately, no truly effective environmental treatment kills hookworm larvae in soil. Sodium borate solutions may reduce larval numbers, but are not 100% effective. Regular deworming of dogs is more important than attempting to sterilise environments.
MANAGING HIGH-RISK SITUATIONS
Breeding kennels and rescue facilities face particular challenges. High dog turnover, stress, and young animals create ideal conditions for hookworm transmission.
Strict protocols are essential: Deworm all incoming dogs immediately upon arrival. Isolate new arrivals for at least two to three weeks. Maintain aggressive deworming schedules (every two weeks for puppies, monthly for adults). Clean and disinfect housing between litters or occupants. Reduce stress and maintain excellent nutrition. However, all of this is far easier said than done for already stretched shelters and rescue facilities!
Shelters and rescues generally assume all incoming dogs and puppies harbour hookworms. Immediate treatment prevents disease in the animal and transmission to other dogs.
Showing and training facilities where many dogs congregate also require vigilance. Ensure your own dogs are on appropriate preventatives before attending. Where possible, avoid allowing dogs to play in areas where many dogs eliminate.
ZOONOTIC RISK (HUMAN INFECTION)
CUTANEOUS LARVA MIGRANS
Hookworm larvae (particularly Ancylostoma braziliense) can penetrate human skin, causing cutaneous larva migrans – also called ‘creeping eruption.’
This occurs when people contact contaminated soil with bare skin – typically walking barefoot or lying on beaches/lawns where infected dogs have defecated. Larvae penetrate the skin and begin migrating through the superficial tissues.
Unlike in dogs, hookworm larvae cannot complete their life cycle in humans. They wander aimlessly through skin layers, creating intensely itchy, serpentine reddish tracks that ‘creep’ as larvae migrate.
The condition is self–limiting (larvae eventually die), but extremely uncomfortable. Treatment with antiparasitic medications (albendazole or ivermectin) hastens resolution.
Prevention requires avoiding contact between bare skin and potentially contaminated soil. Wearing shoes in areas where dogs defaecate, using towels or blankets rather than lying directly on grass/sand, and controlling hookworm in dogs all reduce risk.
CHILDREN ARE AT PARTICULAR RISK
Young children face a higher exposure risk. They play on the ground, often barefoot, and may put contaminated hands or objects in their mouths.
Sandboxes pose a particular risk if accessible to cats or dogs. Covering sandboxes when not in use prevents animal waste from contaminating them.
Teaching children to wash their hands after playing outside, not eating soil or sand, and wearing shoes reduces risk.
Controlling parasites in household pets protects children. Regular deworming and good hygiene create safer home environments.
CONCLUSION
Hookworm represents a serious threat to canine health, particularly in puppies. The parasite's ability to cause severe, potentially fatal anaemia makes it far more dangerous than many other intestinal parasites.
The good news is that hookworm is preventable and treatable. With proper protocols, this devastating parasite need not threaten your dogs' health.
The right bite
Why kibble size and formula matter more than we think
When my vet told me my Chihuahuas should have been eating small–breed kibble their entire lives, I was stunned. For years, I'd been buying high–quality, vet–approved food for our allergy–prone dog, along with fresh extras for longevity, assuming the kibble size was a secondary concern. But as my ageing dog began struggling with her meals, picking at her bowl and leaving half–eaten pieces scattered around, I learned there's real science behind those ‘small breed’ and ‘large breed’ labels – and it goes far deeper than just the size of the pieces.
IT'S NOT JUST ABOUT FITTING INTO THEIR MOUTHS
The most obvious difference is physical: small–breed kibble pieces are typically 8–10mm in diameter, while large–breed kibble can be 20–25mm or larger. But this isn't just about convenience. Dogs have evolved as carnivores with specific jaw mechanics, and a Pomeranian's bite force and jaw structure are vastly different from a Great Dane's.
Small dogs have shorter snouts and smaller mouths, which means they need kibble they can actually grasp and chew effectively. Too–large pieces can be difficult to pick up, frustrating to chew, and even pose a choking risk. Conversely, large breed dogs eating kibble that's too small may not chew it properly, essentially inhaling their food, which can lead to bloating and digestive issues, particularly dangerous in deep–chested breeds.
DID YOU KNOW?
Dogs have different eating styles based on size. Small dogs tend to be ‘nibblers’ who eat multiple small meals, while large dogs are often ‘gulpers’. Kibble design takes this into account - small breed kibble in a flatter, disc shape is easier to pick up precisely, while large breed kibble is often in chunky shapes that are harder to inhale.
THE HIDDEN DIFFERENCE
Here's what surprised me most: small–breed and large–breed formulas aren't just different sizes of the same recipe. They're nutritionally distinct foods designed for completely different metabolic needs.
Small dogs burn calories at a much faster rate relative to their body size. Think of it like heating a house: a small room loses heat much faster than a large one because there's more surface area relative to volume. Small dogs have higher metabolic rates, so small breed formulas are more calorie–dense – packed with more energy in each bite. They also contain more fat and protein per cup to fuel that faster metabolism.
Large breed dogs, meanwhile, face different challenges. They grow rapidly as puppies, and too much calcium or too many calories during this critical growth phase can lead to developmental orthopaedic problems – conditions affecting bones and joints that can cause lifelong pain. Large–breed puppy formulas are carefully calibrated with controlled calcium and phosphorus levels and a moderate calorie density to support steady, healthy growth rather than explosive spurts that stress developing bones.
DID YOU KNOW?
The mechanical action of chewing kibble can reduce plaque buildup by up to 10-15% compared to soft food, but here's the catch: the kibble needs to be the right size for your dog to actually chew it. If it's too small, dogs swallow it whole and get zero dental benefit. If it's too large, they may only bite it once or give up entirely.
In addition, some kibble is specifically designed with a texture that creates a ‘toothbrush effect’ - the kibble doesn't shatter immediately on contact but instead slightly gives way, allowing the teeth to sink in before it breaks. This scraping action helps mechanically remove plaque.
THE SENIOR YEARS
As dogs age, these differences become even more pronounced. Senior small–breed dogs often face dental issues, reduced jaw strength, and sensitive digestion. Smaller, more easily chewable kibble can make the difference between a dog who enjoys meals and one who struggles or avoids eating altogether – exactly what I experienced with my own dogs.
Senior formulas for small breeds typically include joint support supplements like glucosamine, antioxidants for immune health, and are easier to digest. For large breed seniors, joint health is paramount since their size puts more stress on ageing joints, but they also need careful calorie control to prevent obesity, which further burdens those joints.
FAST FACT
The shape of kibble isn't random: triangular, X-shaped, or ring-shaped pieces encourage more chewing and slower eating compared to round pieces that can roll down the throat more easily.
WHAT ABOUT MEDIUM DOGS?
Medium–breed dogs – typically 10–25kg – often do well on either all–breed formulas or dedicated medium–breed foods. They don't have the extreme metabolic rate of toy breeds or the developmental concerns of giant breeds, giving owners more flexibility. However, paying attention to your individual dog's needs is still important.
DID YOU KNOW?
Small dogs have shorter digestive tracts relative to their body size, and food passes through faster. This is why small breed formulas often include more easily digestible proteins and higher nutrient density, as small dogs need to extract maximum nutrition quickly.
The surface area to volume ratio of the kibble affects digestion, too: smaller kibble pieces have more surface area exposed to digestive enzymes, which can improve nutrient absorption in small dogs with rapid digestion.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT KIBBLE
The takeaway isn't complicated: match the kibble to your dog's size category and life stage. Check the packaging – reputable brands clearly indicate whether food is formulated for small (typically under 10kg), medium, large (25–45kg), or giant breeds (over 45kg).
If you're unsure, your vet can help you identify the right category for your dog. And if your dog is struggling with their current food – leaving pieces uneaten, eating slowly, or showing digestive upset – kibble size and formula might be the issue.
A PREVENTITIVE APPROACH
Looking back, I wish I'd known this when my dogs were puppies. While my senior has adapted well to her new small–breed senior formula and is eating enthusiastically again, I’m concerned that feeding the larger kibble (even if high quality and with an excellent allergy profile) may not have been the best thing for her.
The good news? This is an easy fix that can make a real difference in your dog's health, energy, and quality of life. Whether you have a Mastiff or a Maltese, feeding them food designed for their specific needs isn't just marketing – it's nutrition based on real biological differences.
Watching our dogs age is bittersweet. The bouncing puppy who once cleared the sofa in a single leap now carefully considers each step. The dog who towed you down the street now moves more deliberately, sometimes wobbling or struggling to rise from their bed. This isn't just ‘old age’ – it's often muscle loss, a serious but manageable issue that affects most senior dogs.
Understanding why this happens and what we can do about it can add years of quality, comfortable life to our ageing companions.
AGING IS NOT A DISEASE
Let's start with an important mindset shift: ageing itself is not a disease. It's a natural life stage that every dog (and every human) goes through. While we can't stop the clock, we absolutely can manage the changes that come with it.
Too often, owners accept decline as inevitable and ‘he's just old’ becomes an explanation for everything from reduced activity to obvious pain. But many age–related changes are treatable or manageable, and in some cases, even preventable. Muscle loss, joint stiffness, reduced mobility – these aren't things we should simply accept in our senior companions. They are conditions we can address through diet, exercise, medical care, and environmental changes.
It helps to think of senior dog care like maintaining a classic car. It needs more attention, gentler handling, and regular maintenance, but with proper care, it can run beautifully for many more years…
WHY SENIOR DOGS LOSE MUSCLE MASS
The scientific term for age–related muscle loss is sarcopenia, and it affects dogs just as it affects humans. Several factors contribute:
- Decreased activity: As dogs age, they naturally move less with joint discomfort, reduced energy, and declining vision or hearing, making dogs hesitant to exercise. But this is a vicious cycle: less movement leads to muscle loss, which makes movement harder, which leads to even less activity.
- Hormonal changes: Ageing dogs produce lower levels of growth hormone and other anabolic hormones that support muscle growth and maintenance. Without these hormonal signals, muscle protein synthesis slows down while muscle breakdown continues at the same rate.
- Reduced protein synthesis: Even when senior dogs eat adequate protein, their bodies become less efficient at using it to build muscle. This is called ‘anabolic resistance’ and it sees the muscles essentially become resistant to the growth signals from dietary protein.
- Inflammation: Chronic, low–grade inflammation increases with age. This inflammatory state promotes muscle breakdown and interferes with muscle repair processes.
- Neurological changes: The connection between nerves and muscles can deteriorate with age, leading to denervation atrophy, where muscles waste away because they're not receiving proper nerve signals.
THE CONSEQUENCES OF MUSCLE LOSS
Muscle loss isn't just cosmetic. It cascades into serious quality–of–life issues:
- Reduced mobility: Weak muscles make it harder to walk, climb stairs, or get up from lying down.
- Poor balance and increased falls: Muscle weakness, particularly in the hindquarters, leads to wobbling and falls.
- Joint stress: Weak muscles can't properly support joints, worsening arthritis pain.
- Lower metabolic rate: Muscle burns calories even at rest, so muscle loss slows metabolism and can lead to obesity.
- Decreased immune function: Muscle serves as a protein reserve for immune system function.
- Reduced quality of life: Dogs may stop doing activities they enjoy because they're physically unable.
PREVENTION STARTS YOUNG
Here's something many dog owners don't realise: the best time to prevent senior muscle loss is during your dog's young and middle–aged years. Think of it as building a ‘muscle bank’ – the more muscle mass your dog maintains through their adult years, the more reserve they have when age–related loss begins.
FROM PUPPYHOOD THROUGH MIDDLE AGE: SETTING THE FOUNDATION
Young adult dogs (ages one to seven years, depending on breed):
Even if your dog seems healthy and active, intentional exercise habits matter:
- Varied activities: Don't just stick to on lead walks. Include swimming, hiking on different terrain, fetch, agility, or other activities that engage different muscle groups.
- Consistent exercise: Regular activity is better than weekend warrior syndrome. Aim for daily exercise rather than sporadic intense sessions.
- Strength–building activities: Hills, stairs (in moderation), controlled swimming, and play that includes jumping and running all build muscle.
- Maintain a healthy weight: Excess weight stresses joints and reduces activity levels, accelerating the decline.
Middle–aged dogs (ages five to seven years, depending on breed):
This is the critical prevention window. Your dog may still seem spry, but cellular changes are beginning:
- Don't reduce exercise because your dog is ‘slowing down a bit’ – that's when consistent activity becomes most important.
- Add deliberate strength work: Start incorporating exercises like sit–to–stands, cavaletti work (stepping over poles), and balance work.
- Annual vet check–ups: Catch joint issues, hormonal imbalances, or other problems early before they limit activity.
- Optimise nutrition: Transition to a diet that supports joint health and muscle maintenance.
- Monitor muscle condition: Run your hands along your dog's spine, shoulders, and hips monthly. You should feel firm muscle, not just bone. If you notice muscle loss, or any asymmetry, chat to your vet proactively.
THE EARLIER YOU START, THHE BETTER
Dogs who maintain muscle mass and fitness through middle age enter their senior years with:
- More muscle reserve to draw from.
- Better joint support reducing arthritis progression.
- Stronger bones (weight–bearing exercise builds bone density).
- Better cardiovascular fitness.
- Established exercise habits that carry into senior years.
Prevention is always easier than reversal. By the time obvious muscle wasting is visible, significant loss has already occurred.
EXERCISE FOR MUSCLE LOSS IN SENIOR DOGS
The good news? Exercise can slow, stop, or even partially reverse muscle loss in senior dogs. The key is appropriate exercise – not too much, not too little, and the right types.
LOW–IMPACT AEROBIC EXERCISE
Walking remains the foundation of senior dog fitness, but modify it for ageing bodies:
- Shorter, more frequent walks: Three 10–15 minute walks are better than one 45–minute trek.
- Slower pace: Let your dog set the pace; gentle walking maintains cardiovascular health without overtaxing joints.
- Varied terrain: Gentle slopes and different surfaces (grass, sand, carpet) engage different muscle groups and improve balance.
- Swimming: If available, swimming is ideal as it provides resistance training without joint stress. Even 10–15 minutes of swimming can be equivalent to a much longer walk.
Always watch for signs your dog is overdoing it: excessive panting, lagging behind, limping, or reluctance to continue. If your dog has existing joint problems, heart conditions, or other health issues, your vet may recommend even shorter, gentler sessions.
IMPORTANT
Before starting any exercise program with your senior dog, consult your veterinarian. They can assess your dog's overall health, identify any conditions that might require modified exercise, and help you create a safe plan. Dogs with heart disease, severe arthritis, respiratory issues, or other health conditions may need specific exercise restrictions or modifications.
STRENGTH AND RESISTANCE TRAINING
Yes, dogs can do strength training! Again, check with your vet before starting these exercises, especially if your dog has arthritis, hip dysplasia, or other orthopaedic conditions. These exercises specifically target muscle maintenance:
- Sit–to–stand exercises: Have your dog sit and stand repeatedly (5–10 repetitions, 2–3 times daily). This strengthens the hindquarters and improves the ability to rise from rest. Skip this if your dog has severe hip or knee problems.
- Walking over obstacles: Place low objects (textbooks, small boxes, foam pool noodles) on the ground and have your dog step over them. This improves the range of motion and strengthens the legs.
- Stair climbing: If joints permit, slow, controlled stair climbing is excellent resistance training. Start with just two to three steps and build gradually. This is not appropriate for dogs with significant arthritis or hip problems.
- Incline walking: Walking uphill (even a gentle slope) provides resistance that builds muscle without joint impact.
- Backing up: Teaching your dog to walk backwards engages different muscles and improves proprioception (body awareness).
BALANCE AND PROPRIOCEPTION TRAINING
Check with your vet before starting balance work if your dog has neurological issues or severe weakness. These exercises help dogs maintain stability and prevent falls:
- Standing on unstable surfaces: Have your dog stand with front paws on a folded towel, cushion, or balance disc for 10–30 seconds. This strengthens stabilising muscles.
- Figure–8 walking: Walk your dog in figure–8 patterns (around chairs or cones). The turning engages core and leg muscles differently from straight–line walking.
- Weight shifting: While your dog stands, gently encourage them to shift weight to different legs by luring with treats positioned to the side.
- Three–legged stands: Support your dog while gently lifting one paw for a few seconds, encouraging them to balance on three legs.
STRETCHING AND RANGE OF MOTION
Gentle stretching is generally safe for most dogs, but if your dog has severe arthritis or shows pain during stretching, consult your vet first. Maintaining flexibility prevents stiffness and supports muscle function:
- Passive stretching: Gently extend each leg forward, backward, and out to the side, holding for 10–15 seconds.
- Cookie stretches: Hold a treat near your dog's shoulder, encouraging them to turn their head around to their side – this stretches the spine and engages core muscles
- Play bow stretches: Encourage the play bow position (bottom up, chest down), which stretches the spine and hind legs.
HOW MUCH IS ENOUGH?
Start conservatively with five to ten minutes of targeted exercise daily, in addition to regular walks. As you add the exercise, watch for signs of fatigue like excessive panting, reluctance to continue, or soreness the next day. Over time, you can gradually increase the duration and intensity as your dog builds strength.
Ultimately, consistency matters more than intensity, and daily gentle exercise beats occasional vigorous activity.
If your dog has been diagnosed with any health conditions – heart disease, respiratory problems, arthritis, hip dysplasia, spinal issues, or others – work with your vet to determine safe exercise levels. Some conditions improve with exercise, while others require significant modifications.
DIETARY SUPPORT FOR MUSCLE LOSS IN SENIOR DOGS
Exercise alone isn't enough and nutrition plays a crucial role:
HIGHER PROTEIN REQUIREMENTS
Senior dogs actually need more protein than adult dogs, not less (contrary to old myths). Research suggests senior dogs need 50% more protein than younger adults to maintain muscle mass due to anabolic resistance.
- Look for senior formulas with at least 25–30% protein on a dry matter basis.
- High–quality animal proteins (chicken, beef, fish) are more digestible and contain complete amino acid profiles.
- Consider adding lean cooked meat, eggs, or fish to your dog's diet.
LEUCINE AND AMINO ACIDS
Leucine, an amino acid found in animal proteins, is particularly important for triggering muscle protein synthesis. Some senior dog foods are now fortified with additional leucine.
OMEGA–3 FATTY ACIDS
EPA and DHA (from fish oil) have anti–inflammatory properties that combat age–related inflammation and may help preserve muscle mass. Added benefit: they also support joint and cognitive health.
ANTIOXIDANTS
Vitamins E and C, along with other antioxidants, help combat oxidative stress that contributes to muscle breakdown.
SUPPLEMENTS TO CONSIDER
Discuss these with your vet:
- Glucosamine and chondroitin: Support joint health, making exercise more comfortable.
- Creatine: May help improve muscle strength and power in ageing dogs.
- L–carnitine: Supports energy metabolism and may help preserve lean muscle mass.
MAKING LIFE COMFORTABLE
When balance and mobility decline, we can make our homes safer and more accessible:
TRACTION AND SAFETY
- Add non–slip rugs or yoga mats to slippery floors
- Use booties with rubber grips if your dog struggles on hardwood or tile
- Install baby gates at stairs if balance is very poor
- Use night lights – senior dogs often have declining vision
SUPPORTIVE EQUIPMENT
- Ramps: For getting into cars or onto furniture.
- Raised food and water bowls: Easier on the neck and shoulders.
- Support harnesses or slings: Help you support your dog's hindquarters during walks or when navigating stairs.
- Orthopaedic beds: Provide cushioning for achy joints and make it easier to rise.
BATHROOM ACCESSIBILITY
- Consider more frequent outdoor breaks, as bladder control can weaken.
- If mobility is very limited, create an indoor potty area with pee pads.
- Ensure outdoor surfaces aren't slippery when wet.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Senior dogs with reduced muscle mass can struggle to regulate body temperature:
- Provide warm bedding in winter.
- Use cooling mats in summer.
- Consider a dog sweater for winter walks.
PHYSICAL THERAPY OPTIONS
Professional help can make a big difference:
- Canine physiotherapy: Certified canine rehabilitation therapists can create customised exercise programs and teach you proper techniques.
- Hydrotherapy: Underwater treadmills and therapeutic swimming pools offer controlled, low–impact exercise in a supervised setting.
- Massage: Gentle massage improves circulation, reduces muscle tension, and provides pain relief. Many vets can teach you basic techniques.
- Acupuncture: Some dogs respond well to acupuncture for pain management and improved mobility.
- Laser therapy: Cold laser therapy can reduce inflammation and pain, making exercise more comfortable.
QUALITY OF LIFE
This is perhaps the most important section of this article. While we can do much to support our senior dogs, we must also be honest about their quality of life.
PAIN AND STRUGGLE ARE NOT ACCEPTABLE
Your dog's senior years should be comfortable. If your dog is showing signs of significant pain or struggling with basic daily activities, this is not something to manage at home alone – this requires immediate veterinary attention.
Warning signs that warrant urgent vet involvement:
- Obvious pain: Crying out when moving, flinching when touched, trembling, or panting excessively at rest.
- Inability to perform basic functions: Cannot get outside to toilet, cannot reach food/water, cannot get up without help.
- Loss of interest in life: No longer greets you, doesn't want to interact, seems depressed or withdrawn.
- Incontinence: Especially if new or worsening rapidly.
- Appetite loss: Refusing food for more than a day.
- Laboured breathing: Difficulty breathing at rest.
- Frequent falling: Multiple falls per day, inability to walk without falling.
These are not normal ageing changes to accept – they indicate treatable medical conditions or pain that needs management.
THE CONVERSATION
Your vet can help you assess your dog's quality of life honestly. There are quality of life scales that evaluate:
- Pain levels and pain control
- Appetite and hydration
- Hygiene (can they keep themselves clean)
- Happiness and mental engagement
- Mobility sufficient for basic needs
- More good days than bad days
If exercise and environmental modifications aren't enough to keep your dog comfortable and engaged with life, your vet can offer:
- Pain management medications
- Anti–inflammatory drugs
- Joint injections
- Mobility aids
- And if necessary, honest guidance about when quality of life has declined beyond what can be managed
EARLY INTERVENTION IS KEY
Don't wait until your dog is in crisis. If you notice declining mobility, apparent discomfort, or reduced quality of life, schedule a vet appointment immediately. Early intervention often means:
- Treatable conditions are caught before they become severe
- Pain management can be implemented before suffering becomes entrenched
- More treatment options are available
- Better outcomes overall
Many conditions that cause pain and mobility issues in senior dogs – arthritis, dental disease, hormonal imbalances, organ disease – are highly treatable when caught early. What looks like an inevitable decline might actually be a fixable medical problem.
WHEN TO SEE THE VET
Beyond quality of life concerns, certain changes warrant veterinary attention as they may indicate treatable conditions:
- Rapid muscle wasting, especially if asymmetrical.
- Complete reluctance to exercise when previously active.
- Changes in behaviour or personality.
- Muscle tremors or twitching.
- Sudden worsening of mobility.
- Any signs of pain or distress.
These could indicate treatable conditions like hypothyroidism, Cushing's disease, or neurological problems rather than simple ageing.
A LONG–TERM COMMITMENT
Maintaining your senior dog's muscle mass and mobility is a daily commitment, but the rewards are immeasurable. Dogs who stay active and strong enjoy a better quality of life, more independence, and often live longer than sedentary seniors.
Start where your dog is today. If they're young or middle–aged, begin building that muscle bank now. If significant muscle loss has already occurred, it's never too late to begin supportive care. Small, consistent efforts – a few minutes of exercise daily, a protein–rich diet, a safer home environment – accumulate into significant improvements.
We must remember that ageing is not a disease. It's a life stage we can manage with compassion, knowledge, and appropriate care. Our dogs spent their younger years giving us unconditional love and joy. In their golden years, we have the opportunity to give back by helping them stay strong, comfortable, and engaged with life for as long as possible.
And always, keep your vet involved. They're your partner in ensuring your senior dog lives not just longer, but better.
Teaching a
reliable recall
Building a strong come command in all environments
A reliable recall – a dog who comes when called regardless of distractions – is perhaps the most important behaviour you'll ever teach. It's not just convenient; it's potentially life–saving. A dog who returns immediately when called can be stopped from running into traffic, prevented from approaching aggressive dogs, recalled from chasing wildlife, and kept safe in countless situations where their instincts might otherwise lead them into danger.
Yet reliable recall is also one of the most challenging behaviours to achieve. Dogs are easily distracted by exciting smells, other animals, people, and the sheer joy of running free. Teaching recall requires understanding how dogs learn, building motivation that competes with environmental distractions, and systematically training across increasing levels of difficulty. There are no shortcuts, but there is a proven process that works.
This guide provides a step–by–step approach to building recall from the ground up. Whether you're starting with a young puppy or rebuilding recall with an adult dog who has learned to ignore you, these methods work. The process requires patience, consistency, and realistic expectations about timelines, but the reward – a dog you can trust off–lead in appropriate situations – is worth every minute invested.
UNDERSTANDING RECALL
Before diving into training, it helps to understand why recall fails. Dogs aren't being stubborn or spiteful when they ignore your calls; they're making perfectly logical choices based on their understanding of the situation.
THE REINFORCEMENT PROBLEM
From your dog's perspective, coming when called often means the end of something fun. They're playing with another dog, and you call them to leave. They're exploring fascinating smells, and coming means going inside. They're running freely, and recall means being put back on the lead. Over time, they learn that 'come' predicts loss of freedom and fun, which is hardly a motivating association.
Meanwhile, staying away is self–reinforcing. Every moment they continue playing, sniffing, or running, they're being rewarded by the activity itself. The longer they ignore you, the more fun they have. From a learning perspective, ignoring recall is being continuously reinforced, while obeying it often results in something unpleasant.
This is why recall training must make coming back the most rewarding choice available, and why you must avoid ‘poisoning the cue’ by associating it with negative outcomes.
COMMON TRAINING MISTAKES
Several common mistakes undermine recall training:
- Calling your dog for unpleasant things: Bath time, nail trimming, being left alone, going in their crate – if these events consistently follow recall, your dog learns to avoid coming.
- Only calling to end fun: If the only time you call your dog at the park is when it's time to leave, they quickly learn that recall means game over.
- Punishment after they finally come: Your dog runs off, ignores multiple calls, then finally returns 20 minutes later. You're furious and scold them. What have they learned? That coming to you results in punishment so next time they'll stay away even longer.
- Repeating the cue endlessly: 'Max, come! Max! Come here! Max, come! MAX!' teaches your dog that the first 'come' can be ignored; you'll keep calling. They learn to wait for the really angry–sounding tenth call.
- Testing before training: Letting your dog off–leash in exciting environments before you've built a strong recall history teaches them that they can ignore you and nothing happens.
Every time your dog comes when called, it should be the best decision they made all day.
FOUNDATION TRAINING
Building reliable recall starts indoors in a distraction–free environment. This foundation work is critical, as if you skip these steps, you'll struggle later when distractions increase.
CHOOSING YOUR RECALL WORD
If your dog already ignores a recall word (usually 'come'), choose a completely new word for this training. Your old cue carries baggage, such as a history of being ignored and not reinforced. Start fresh with a new word: 'here,' 'close,' 'touch,' or even something unusual like 'banana.' The specific word doesn't matter; what matters is that it's novel and will only be used in training, never burned by being called repeatedly without reinforcement.
Decide on your word before starting training and ensure everyone in your household uses only this word, never the old, ignored cue.
PHASE ONE: BUILDING THE ASSOCIATION
Begin in your home with minimal distractions. You'll need extremely high–value treats – small, soft, smelly treats your dog absolutely loves. Save the best treats only for recall training; they shouldn't be available any other time.
The process:
Stand or sit quietly. When your dog naturally looks at you (don't call them yet), immediately say your recall word in a happy, excited tone and toss a treat on the ground near your feet. Your dog approaches and eats the treat. The instant they finish eating, toss another treat a few metres away from you. As they walk toward that treat, the moment they finish it, say your recall word again and toss another treat near your feet.
Repeat this sequence five to ten times. Your dog learns that the special word means amazing treats appear near this person. This builds a conditioned emotional response as hearing the word triggers happy anticipation and movement toward you, even before conscious thought.
Practice this multiple times daily for several days. Keep sessions short – five minutes maximum. End while your dog is still enthusiastic, not when they're full or bored.
PHASE TWO: ADDING MOVEMENT
Once your dog quickly turns and moves toward you when they hear the recall word, add distance and movement. Start in a hallway or single room. Wait until your dog is a few metres away and not looking at you, then say your recall word. The moment they turn toward you, praise enthusiastically ("Yes! Good dog!") and produce multiple treats, feeding them one after another for several seconds.
Key points:
- Say the word only once. If your dog doesn't respond, you've progressed too quickly – reduce distance and distraction.
- Mark the moment they turn toward you with your praise word, then feed multiple treats over several seconds after they reach you.
- Make yourself exciting – use an animated voice, crouch down, or move backwards to encourage enthusiastic response.
- Sometimes, hold your dog's collar gently while feeding treats. This teaches that being touched/restrained is part of the recall game, preventing dogs who return but dart away before you can secure them.
Practice in different rooms of your house at various distances when your dog is lying down or mildly distracted by a toy (not highly engaged). The success rate should be near 100% in this low–distraction environment before moving outside.
PHASE THREE: OUTDOOR TRAINING BEGINS
You're now ready for outdoor practice, but with strict safety protocols in place. Your dog is not ready for off–lead recall in open areas. Instead, use a long line like a five to ten metre lightweight line that gives freedom while maintaining safety.
Begin in your fenced yard if you have one, or a quiet outdoor area with minimal distractions. Attach the long line and let your dog explore. When they're a few metres away, call your recall word. If they come, jackpot with multiple high–value treats, enthusiastic praise and a brief play session. Make it a party.
If they don't respond immediately, don't repeat the cue. Instead, make yourself more interesting – run away, make exciting noises, crouch down. If they still don't respond after a few seconds, gently use the long line to guide them toward you (not dragging or forcing), and when they reach you, give treats but with less enthusiasm than if they'd come on their own.
This teaches two things: the recall word works only once (no repeating), and choosing to come themselves earns huge rewards, while being guided to you is less fun but still positive.
PROGRESSIVE TRAINING
With a solid foundation established, you'll systematically increase difficulty across multiple dimensions: distance, duration, and most importantly, distractions. Progress slowly; it's better to spend extra weeks at easier levels than to rush forward and experience repeated failures.
THE THREE Ds: DISTANCE, DURATION, DISTRACTION
These three factors determine recall difficulty. Increase only one at a time while keeping the others easy:
Distance: How far away is your dog when you call? Start close (three to five metres) and gradually increase. A dog who reliably recalls from five metres won't automatically recall from 50 metres.
Duration: How long has your dog been engaged in an activity before you call? Calling a dog who's been free for 30 seconds is easier than calling one who's been exploring for 20 minutes and is deeply engaged.
Distraction: This is the biggest challenge. Environmental distractions include other dogs, people, wildlife, exciting smells, moving objects, and more. Each type of distraction requires separate training.
Example progression: Week one, practice 5–metre recalls in your yard with minimal distractions. Week two, move to 10 metres in the same environment. Week three, maintain 5 metre but practice at a quiet park with slightly more distractions. Week four, combine 10 metres at the park. The progression is gradual, building success upon success.
MANAGING DISTRACTIONS SYSTEMATICALLY
Distractions are where most recall training fails. Owners practice in quiet environments, then expect their dog to recall away from playing with another dog at the park. The difficulty gap is enormous.
Create a distraction hierarchy, i.e. a list of all the things that might tempt your dog, ranked from least to most distracting. For many dogs, it looks something like this:
- Mildly interesting smell on the ground
- Seeing another dog at a distance
- Person walking nearby
- Seeing a squirrel or bird at a distance
- Another dog approaching on a lead
- Off–lead dog nearby but not interacting
- Chasing a bird or small animal
- Playing with another dog
Your dog's hierarchy will be unique. Identify what distracts them most and work through levels systematically. Don't jump to level eight when you've only mastered level two.
TRAINING AROUND OTHER DOGS
For most dogs, other dogs are the highest–level distraction. This requires careful, structured training, ideally with a helper and their dog.
Begin with both dogs on lead at a distance where your dog notices the other dog but isn't overly excited. Practice your recall, keeping your dog on a long line. If they respond, massive rewards. Gradually decrease the distance between dogs over multiple sessions.
Next step: allow brief greetings, then immediately call your dog away. Reward hugely for leaving. Gradually extend greeting time before recalling. Eventually, practice recalling during play – start with calling before play gets too intense, when your dog is between play bouts.
This takes months of systematic work. Expecting a dog to leave exciting play on the first attempt without this gradual progression is unrealistic. Don't test what you haven't trained.
ADVANCED STRATEGIES FOR RELIABLE RECALL
Beyond basic training progression, several strategies enhance recall reliability.
THE PREMACK PRINCIPLE
The Premack Principle states that high–probability behaviours can reinforce low–probability behaviours. In practical terms, coming when called can be rewarded by being released to return to what they were doing.
Implementation: At the park, periodically call your dog. When they come, give treats and praise, then immediately say your release word ('go play!') and let them return to playing. Coming to you doesn't always mean the end of fun – often it's just a brief interruption followed by more fun. This dramatically improves motivation to respond.
Aim to call your dog and release them five to ten times during an outing before the final recall when it's time to leave. By then, they don't know whether this recall means 'come get treats and go back to playing' or 'time to leave,' so they respond every time.
VARIABLE REINFORCEMENT SCHEDULE
Once your dog has a reliable recall in a particular context, gradually introduce variability in your rewards. Instead of treating every single time, sometimes use just praise, sometimes treats, sometimes play, sometimes release back to activity. Variable schedules maintain strong behaviour better than consistent reinforcement once the behaviour is established.
However – and this is critical – only introduce variability after behaviour is very strong. If you reduce reinforcement too early, the behaviour deteriorates. When facing new distractions or more difficult scenarios, return to high–rate reinforcement until reliability is re–established.
EMERGENCY RECALL: A SEPARATE CUE
Some trainers recommend teaching an emergency recall – a separate cue used only in genuine emergencies and always followed by the most extraordinary rewards available. This gives you a nuclear option for situations where your dog's life depends on an immediate response.
Train this cue the same way as regular recall, but use a unique sound (a whistle pattern, a specific word you'll never use casually) and reserve the absolute best rewards – maybe a whole chicken breast, a favourite toy they only get for this cue, or an entire game of their most–loved activity.
Practice emergency recall very rarely – monthly at most – to maintain its power. The moment your dog hears this cue, it should override everything else because they've learned it predicts something absolutely incredible.
BODY LANGUAGE AND TONE
How you call matters as much as what you say. Recall should sound exciting and inviting, never angry or demanding. Even if you're frustrated that your dog ignored the first call (which you shouldn't have given if they weren't ready), your voice must remain happy and welcoming.
Movement enhances recall. Moving away from your dog triggers their chase instinct and desire to be with you. Running away while calling often produces a better response than standing still. Crouching makes you less threatening and more approachable, especially for timid dogs.
Never call your dog while moving toward them – this creates approach pressure and can make them move away. If you need to reach your dog and they're not responding to recall, walk calmly toward them without calling, then put them on the lead and walk away. Don't poison your recall cue by associating it with being chased.
TROUBLESHOOTING COMMON PROBLEMS
Even with careful training, you'll encounter challenges. Here's how to address common issues.
THE 'KEEP–AWAY' GAME
Some dogs respond to recall by approaching within a few metres, then dancing away when you reach for them. They've learned that coming close is fun, but being caught is not.
Solution: Always feed multiple treats before touching your dog. Build this sequence: recall word dog approaches you feed three treats you touch collar while feeding more treats you release them or leash them. Your dog learns the entire sequence is rewarding, not just the approach.
Never grab at a dog who's playing keep–away – this reinforces the game. Instead, make yourself more interesting, sit down with treats visible, or calmly walk away. Remove your attention; most dogs will follow.
SLOW, RELUCTANT RETURNS
Your dog responds but takes their time wandering back, stopping to sniff, showing no urgency. This typically means either the reinforcement history isn't strong enough or coming to you has been associated with negative outcomes.
Solution: Increase reinforcement value dramatically. Whatever you're currently offering isn't competing with environmental rewards. Try better treats, more exciting praise, and releasing them back to play more often. Make yourself irresistible.
Also, examine what happens after recall. If it usually means leashing and leaving, your dog has learned to delay the inevitable. Implement the Premack Principle: call and release multiple times during outings.
SELECTIVE HEARING
Your dog recalls perfectly at home or in familiar places, but completely ignores you in more exciting environments. This isn't stubbornness – you've progressed too quickly. The difficulty gap between where you trained and where you're testing is too large.
Solution: Return to easier levels. Use the long line in these more challenging environments and rebuild the behaviour systematically. Increase the distraction level far more gradually than you initially planned. Some dogs need many more repetitions at each level before advancing.
WHEN YOU'VE POISONED YOUR ORIGINAL CUE
If your dog has learned to ignore your existing recall word over years of it being called repeatedly without enforcement or association with negative outcomes, don't try to rehabilitate it. That word carries too much negative history.
Solution: Choose a completely new word and train it from scratch following the process outlined in this guide. Commit to never using this new word unless you're in a position to reinforce the response, which means keeping your dog on a long line until recall is very strong. Put in the months of work to build a new, clean cue rather than fighting the old one’s negative associations.
MAINTAINING RECALL LONG-TERM
Recall isn't something you train once and forget. It requires ongoing maintenance throughout your dog's life.
PRACTICE REGULARLY
Incorporate recall practice into daily life. Call your dog before meals, when giving them toys, and before opening doors to go outside. Make it a game during walks – periodically call them just to give treats and praise, then release them to continue walking. These repetitions maintain the strong reinforcement history that makes recall reliable.
Every few months, do a formal training session returning to basics, even if your dog has excellent recall. This refresher maintains the behaviour's strength and prevents deterioration.
MANAGE RISK APPROPRIATELY
Even with excellent recall, some situations require leashed control. Near roads, around livestock, in crowded areas, or anywhere your dog's safety depends on instant response with zero margin for error, keep them on the lead. Recall is highly reliable, but no behaviour is 100% in all situations. Don't test it in scenarios where failure has serious consequences.
Know your dog's limits. Maybe they have perfect recall except around squirrels. This is fine, just keep them one the lead where squirrels are present. Or perhaps they're reliable in familiar places but not yet trustworthy in new environments. Use your long line while building reliability in new locations.
THE ROLE OF OFF-LEAD TIME
Many paw parents underestimate how much training and time investment is required before safe off–lead access. Six weeks of training is a start, not a completion point. For most dogs, truly reliable recall in the face of serious distractions takes six months to a year of systematic training.
Until then, long lines provide freedom while maintaining safety. A ten–metre line allows running, playing, and exploration with the security of being able to prevent dangerous situations. Many dogs do well with long–line freedom and never need full off–leash access.
Off–lead privileges should be viewed as a goal you work toward, not an entitlement your dog gets simply by reaching a certain age. Earn it through training, maintain it through ongoing practice, and remain realistic about when leashed control is more appropriate.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
PUPPIES VS. ADULT DOGS
Puppies are often easier to train because they haven't learned to ignore recall and naturally want to stay near their people. Start recall training the day your puppy arrives home. Their natural tendency to follow makes early training straightforward – capitalise on this window before they become confident explorers.
Adult dogs may have negative recall histories, but aren't hopeless. They can absolutely learn reliable recall with patient, systematic training. The process is the same as with puppies; it just may require more repetitions at each level and more careful attention to rebuilding motivation. An adult dog with years of ignoring recall might need a year of retraining to achieve reliability.
BREED AND INDIVIDUAL DIFFERENCES
Some breeds are genetically inclined toward behaviours that conflict with recall. Hounds bred to follow scent trails, sighthounds bred to chase movement, terriers bred to work independently – these dogs can learn recall, but it may be more challenging and require more management than with biddable breeds like retrievers or working dogs bred to work closely with handlers.
This doesn't mean these dogs can't have off–lead privileges; it means you need realistic expectations and possibly longer training timelines. A Beagle who hits a good scent trail will struggle more than a Border Collie to respond to recall. Account for this in your training plan and management decisions.
Individual personality matters too. Confident, independent dogs may care less about being with you than anxious, people–focused dogs. Adjust your training to your specific dog, not some theoretical average.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Teaching reliable recall requires significant time, consistency, and patience. There will be moments when progress seems slow, when your dog's response disappoints, when you question whether it's worth the effort. It is. The freedom and safety that reliable recall provides – for both you and your dog – makes every training session worthwhile.
A dog who comes when called can safely enjoy off–lead exercise in appropriate areas, giving them physical and mental enrichment that walks on a lead alone cannot provide. They can be quickly removed from dangerous situations, preventing injuries and potentially saving their life. And the relationship you build through training – one where your dog chooses to be with you even when exciting alternatives exist – strengthens your bond in ways that extend far beyond recall itself.
Remember that perfection isn't the goal; reliability is. Your dog won't have 100% recall in 100% of situations. But with systematic training following the principles outlined here, you can achieve recall that's reliable enough for safe off–lead time in appropriate environments. That's the realistic goal – not a dog who never makes mistakes, but one who responds consistently enough that you trust them with freedom.
Start where you are, progress at your dog's pace, celebrate small victories, and don't rush. Every successful recall builds toward the next level. With time and consistency, you'll have a dog who joyfully returns when called, not because they must, but because being with you is the best option available. That's what truly reliable recall looks like.
YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED
Dog training challenges
Solutions to common training obstacles and behavioural issues
If your dog pulls on the lead, jumps up on guests, or barks at every passing jogger, you are in very good company. These are some of the most common questions we receive here at DQ, and they come from all kinds of owners – experienced and novice alike. The good news is that the vast majority of training challenges are far more solvable than they might feel in the moment.
PLEASE NOTE
None of the guidance here is a substitute for proper behaviourist input. These are our thoughts and suggestions based on our experience but each individual case is different, and a good canine behaviourist or trainer is an irreplaceable part of a dog’s support team.
Training difficulties are among the most common reasons people reach out to us for advice, and sadly they are also among the reasons dogs end up in shelters – not because the dogs are bad, but because their owners have not had access to the right guidance. Much of what looks like an insurmountable problem can actually be turned around with the right approach and a bit of patience.
Part of the difficulty is that so much of the training advice out there – from the internet, well–meaning friends, or older books – can be ineffective or even counterproductive. Punishment–based methods might quieten a behaviour in the short term, but they tend to create fear and anxiety and often make things worse in the long run. Equally, advice that worked perfectly for one person's Labrador may be entirely wrong for another person's anxious mixed breed. One–size–fits–all solutions rarely get to the heart of what is actually going on.
In this Q&A, we have tried to address the training questions that come up most often in our inbox, offering advice grounded in a modern understanding of how dogs learn and behave. Whether you are dealing with something as straightforward as housetraining or something more complex like reactivity or separation anxiety, we hope these answers give you a helpful starting point.
Housetraining and elimination issues
Q: My puppy is not housetraining – we are still getting daily accidents despite doing our best. Any advice?
A: Daily accidents in a young puppy are actually very normal, and it almost certainly does not mean you are doing anything wrong. Housetraining takes longer than most people expect, and there are a few things worth checking that might help speed things up.
The most important thing to understand is that very young puppies – under four months – have genuinely limited bladder control. They simply cannot hold it for long periods, no matter how hard they try. A three–month–old puppy may need to go out every two to three hours. As a rough guide, puppies can typically manage about one hour per month of age, plus one – so a three–month–old might manage up to four hours at a stretch, and often less than that.
It also helps to keep a close eye on your puppy when they are loose in the house. If you are not around to spot the signs that they need to go out, accidents are almost inevitable. When you cannot supervise, a crate or a small safe area will help keep things on track.
A regular routine makes a real difference, too. Feeding at set times means you can predict when your puppy will need to go out, which takes a lot of the guesswork away. Try to take them outside first thing after waking, after eating, after a play session, and every couple of hours in between. The more consistent you can be, the quicker they will pick it up.
One thing that catches a lot of people out is the choice of cleaner. Ammonia–based products can actually make the problem worse, because urine contains ammonia – so to your puppy, the spot still smells like a toilet. An enzymatic cleaner designed for pet accidents will do a much better job of removing the odour completely.
It is also worth knowing that telling off a puppy after an accident does not really help, even if it feels like the obvious response. Puppies cannot connect the telling–off with something that happened earlier, so all it tends to do is make them anxious about going to the toilet in front of you – which actually makes supervision harder.
Pulling all of this together, the key is a combination of supervision, routine, and patience. Keep an eye on your puppy when they are free in the house, take them out regularly on a predictable schedule, and give them plenty of praise when they do go outside. Most puppies get there reliably by five to six months with consistent management, though some take a little longer than others – and that is perfectly fine.
Q: My adult dog suddenly started having accidents in the house. Why?
A: Adult dogs previously housetrained who begin having accidents likely have medical issues rather than behavioural problems.
Urinary tract infections, bladder stones, diabetes, kidney disease, cognitive dysfunction in seniors, and many other medical conditions can cause loss of housetraining. The first step for any adult dog having accidents is veterinary examination, including urinalysis and bloodwork.
If medical issues are ruled out, consider environmental or emotional factors. Major household changes – new baby, moving house, schedule changes, loss of a family member – can trigger stress–related elimination. Anxiety can manifest as house soiling.
NOTE
If you are concerned about your puppy and their elimination habits, chat to your vet. In rare cases there can be other issues contributing to toilet training problems.
Some senior dogs do lose sphincter control or an awareness of their housetraining habits as they get older. This is a sign of age–related decline rather than any change in their intentions, and management is really the way to go – think frequent trips outside, easy access to the garden, and perhaps some protective bedding or a belly band, rather than trying to retrain.
For behavioural cases without a medical cause, return to housetraining basics: frequent outdoor opportunities, supervision, confinement when unsupervised, enthusiastic praise for outdoor elimination, enzymatic cleaning of accidents, and no punishment.
Lead walking and pulling
Q: My dog pulls on the lead constantly. We have been working on it but it does not seem to be getting any better. What else can we try?
A: Lead pulling is one of those behaviours that can feel almost impossible to crack, because it is self–rewarding – pulling gets your dog where they want to go, and that is a very powerful incentive. The key is to change that equation so that a loose lead becomes the more rewarding option.
A front–clip harness can be a really useful tool while you are training. When a dog pulls against one of these, the attachment point causes them to turn slightly sideways, which makes it much harder to make forward progress. It will not teach loose lead walking on its own, but it takes some of the frustration out of walks while you work on the habit.
The core idea behind the training is simple: your dog only gets to move forward when the lead is loose. The moment they pull ahead, you stop and wait. As soon as they release the tension – even just a little – you move forward again. Over time, this teaches them that pulling means the walk stalls, and a loose lead means it continues.
It can feel painfully slow at first – you might cover twenty metres in ten minutes – but that is completely normal at the start. The important thing is to keep it up, because even the occasional allowance when you are in a hurry can undo a lot of progress. Pulling that is rewarded even intermittently actually becomes harder to shift, not easier.
It is also worth starting in a low–distraction environment. Your garden or a quiet street will give you an easier training environment to work in than a busy park, and it is much better to build up your foundation skills before tackling more stimulating situations.
Do not forget to reward the good stuff, either. When your dog is walking nicely beside you, let them know – with treats, praise, or even a chance to stop and sniff something interesting. Rewarding the behaviour you want is just as important as removing the reward for the behaviour you do not.
For dogs who have been pulling for a while, it is worth being realistic about the timeline. It can take weeks or even months of consistent practice before the habit really shifts, so try not to be too hard on yourself or your dog. Every walk is an opportunity to reinforce the new behaviour, and gradually it will become second nature.
Q: My dog is generally fine on the lead, but the moment they spot another dog they become very reactive. How do we work on this?
A: This describes on–lead reactivity – frustrated, excited, or anxious behaviour triggered by other dogs while on lead. It is extremely common and stems from several possible causes requiring different approaches.
Frustrated greeters want to play with other dogs but cannot because the lead restrains them. Frustration manifests as barking, lunging, and pulling. These dogs are not aggressive but the behaviour looks concerning. The solution involves teaching calm behaviour around other dogs, providing adequate off–lead play opportunities to reduce frustration, and increasing distance when other dogs appear until the dog can remain calm.
Fear–based reactivity is different – here, the dog finds other dogs genuinely frightening and uses barking and lunging to try to create distance. These dogs need a much more gradual approach: starting at a distance where they can see another dog without going over the top, pairing that sight with something really rewarding, and slowly closing the gap over weeks or months.
For both types of reactivity, increasing the distance between your dog and the trigger is a crucial first step. Cross the street, step behind a parked car, create as much space as you need until your dog can stay calm. Trying to train when a dog is already reacting is very difficult, so work at a distance where they can notice the other dog but still focus on you and take a treat.
The ‘engage–disengage’ game teaches dogs to notice triggers calmly. When your dog looks at another dog, immediately reward. This teaches that other dogs predict good things. Over time, dogs begin looking at other dogs then immediately back to owner expecting reward.
Severe reactivity often benefits from professional help. Certified dog trainers or veterinary behaviourists can assess individual cases and provide tailored protocols. Some reactive dogs also benefit from anti–anxiety medication supporting behaviour modification.
Jumping and over–enthusiastic greetings
Q: My dog jumps up on everyone who comes to the house. We would love to find a way to help them greet people more calmly. Any suggestions?
A: Most dogs jump up simply because they are excited. Jumping is a completely natural way for dogs to greet each other, and your dog has no idea yet that humans experience it rather differently. The tricky part is that jumping tends to get a response from people, even if that response is pushing them away or telling them off. Any kind of interaction like that actually makes the jumping more likely, not less, because as far as your dog is concerned, something happened and they got to connect with you.
It really does help if everyone is on the same page with this one. If some people respond one way and others another, your dog gets mixed messages about what works and what does not, and it takes much longer for the penny to drop. Ideally everyone in the household and your regular visitors should all do the same thing, at least for a while.
The idea is to turn away the moment your dog jumps – cross your arms, avoid eye contact, and just wait. Do not speak to them or push them away, as even that counts as an interaction and can keep the jumping going. The instant all four paws are on the floor, turn back and give them calm praise and attention. If they jump again, you turn away again, and so on.
Over time, this teaches your dog that the calm greeting on all four paws is the one that actually gets them what they were after all along – a lovely hello. Most dogs pick this up fairly quickly once everyone is doing the same thing.
It also really helps to give your dog something to aim for instead. Teaching them to sit when people come in is a great one, as it is physically impossible to jump and sit at the same time, so once sitting becomes the habit, the jumping simply has nowhere to go. Reward it generously, practise with family members first, and eventually it will become your dog's default way of saying hello.
It can also help to manage the situation while your dog is still learning. If you have visitors and your dog is still a work in progress, keep them on a lead or in another room until your guests have settled in, then bring them out in a controlled way. This stops them practising the jumping and gives you a chance to use your training.
For dogs who jump on people during walks, the same principles apply. Stop walking, turn away, wait for four paws down. Only continue interaction when the dog is calm.
Excessive barking
Q: My dog barks at almost everything – people walking past, delivery drivers, other dogs on walks. How can we help them with this?
A: Barking serves different functions depending on context. Identifying why the dog barks usually determines appropriate solutions.
Alert barking when people approach is normal protective behaviour. However, excessive alert barking or barking that continues well after the trigger has passed becomes problematic. Teach a ‘quiet’ cue by marking and rewarding moments of silence. When the dog pauses barking, immediately say ‘quiet’ and reward generously. Over time, the cue can interrupt barking earlier.
Barrier frustration causes barking at windows when dogs cannot reach interesting things outside. Management solutions include blocking visual access to windows during peak trigger times, providing alternative activities, and teaching the dog to settle away from windows.
Demand barking – when a dog barks to get attention, food, or play – is best dealt with by not giving in to it. If barking gets them what they want, it is a very effective strategy from their point of view, so it is worth waiting until they are quiet before you respond.
Boredom barking results from insufficient mental and physical stimulation. Increase exercise, provide puzzle toys, practice training, and create enrichment activities. A tired, mentally stimulated dog barks less from boredom.
For all barking issues, punishment is ineffective and often counterproductive. Yelling at barking dogs just adds to noise and excitement. Shock collars or citronella collars may suppress barking temporarily but create anxiety and do not address underlying causes.
Recall and coming when called
Q: My dog is very reluctant to come when called, especially off the lead. How do we improve their recall?
A: Shaky recall is one of the most common things we hear about, and it usually comes down to one of a few things: the foundations not being quite solid enough yet, the environment being far more interesting than coming back to you, or the dog having learned at some point that coming back leads to something unpleasant.
The best approach is to rebuild recall from the ground up, starting in an environment with virtually no distractions. Call your dog using a consistent word – either 'come' or their name – and reward them generously when they arrive. Practise this repeatedly in a quiet spot until the response feels really solid, before you add anything more challenging.
From there, you can gradually introduce more distractions. Move to your garden, then a quiet street, then somewhere busier. As things get more stimulating, the rewards need to go up to match – coming back to you when there are interesting smells all around deserves something rather special.
One thing that is really worth bearing in mind is to avoid calling your dog for anything unpleasant. If recall is always followed by the end of a fun walk, a nail trim, or a telling–off, they will quickly learn that coming to you is not a great deal. For anything like that, it is better to go to them rather than calling them over.
A long line – ten to fifteen metres – is a great middle ground while you are building things up. It gives your dog a good amount of freedom while stopping them from practising ignoring you. Use it to work on recall with rewards before you try anything off–lead in situations where a reliable response really matters.
It also helps to make coming back to you genuinely exciting. Carry some really high–value treats that your dog only ever gets for a good recall, and try to make yourself as interesting and fun as possible. The more rewarding you are to come back to, the easier the whole thing becomes.
Separation anxiety and destructive behaviour
Q: My dog destroys things when we leave them alone at home. What is going on, and how do we help?
A: It is a really common assumption that dogs destroy things out of spite when they are left alone, but it is not actually how dogs think (at all!). What is usually going on is either boredom – they are simply not stimulated enough – or genuine separation anxiety, which is a form of panic that some dogs experience when left on their own.
If it is boredom–based, your dog will probably be calm when you leave and cheerful when you get back – the destruction happens in between because they have nothing to occupy them. This is usually helped by making sure they have had a good run before you go, and by providing puzzle toys or food–dispensing toys to keep their mind busy while you are out. Rotating toys so they feel fresh can help, too.
Separation anxiety manifests as panic when left alone. Dogs may drool excessively, pace frantically, vocalise continuously, have accidents despite being housetrained, or destroy items near exits trying to escape. These dogs are distressed, not bored. Treatment requires systematic desensitisation – teaching the dog to tolerate brief absences, gradually extending duration, and often medication supporting behaviour modification.
True separation anxiety is a more complex issue, and it is one where professional help really does make a difference. It rarely improves on its own, and can get worse over time if it is not addressed. A certified behaviourist or veterinary behaviourist will be able to put together a plan that is tailored to your dog's specific situation.
Prevention includes teaching puppies that alone time is normal and safe. Practice brief departures from an early age, ensuring puppies have positive experiences when alone rather than only being left alone when you must leave for extended periods.
Putting it all together
The questions we have covered here are only a fraction of the training challenges that come our way, but they are among the most common – and the encouraging thing is that each one of them is genuinely solvable with the right techniques and a realistic expectation of how long things take.
The thread that runs through all of the advice above is consistency. The more reliably everyone in the household responds in the same way, the faster your dog will learn the new rules. Every interaction you have with your dog is a chance to reinforce the behaviours you want. Keeping things consistent is one of the most powerful things you can do.
It is also important to give yourself and your dog enough time. Dogs who have been practising a behaviour for months or years are not going to change overnight, and that is completely normal. A rough guide is a few weeks for simpler issues and a few months for more entrenched ones – so try not to be too hard on yourself if progress feels slow. It will come.
Modern, reward–based training is not just the nicer approach – it is genuinely more effective. Punishment might quieten a behaviour in the short term, but it does not teach your dog what to do instead, and it can create fear and anxiety that make other things harder. Rewarding the behaviours you want is a clearer way to communicate and builds your relationship with your dog.
For more serious issues – aggression, severe separation anxiety, extreme reactivity, or compulsive behaviours – it is well worth getting some professional support. A certified dog trainer, veterinary behaviourist, or behaviour consultant can assess your situation, identify what is driving the problem, and develop a plan tailored to your dog. Some issues really do benefit from that kind of expert input.
It is worth remembering that behind every training challenge, there is a dog doing their best to make sense of a world with rules that do not always feel logical to them. They are not trying to be difficult – they are doing what has worked for them so far. Approach training with that in mind, use methods that are grounded in how dogs actually learn, and you will be surprised how much progress you can make.
TRAINING TROUBLESHOOTING SUMMARY
CORE PRINCIPLES:
- Consistency is key – everyone in the household should enforce the same rules.
- Reward desired behaviours heavily.
- Remove rewards for unwanted behaviours.
- Manage the environment to prevent the rehearsal of problems.
- Be patient – behaviour change takes weeks or months.
- Punishment rarely solves problems and often creates new ones.
WHEN TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP:
- Aggression toward people or other animals.
- Severe separation anxiety.
- Behaviour problems not improving with consistent training.
- Compulsive behaviours.
- Extreme fear or anxiety.
- Any behaviour that makes you feel unsafe.
REMEMBER:
- Most training problems are normal dog behaviours in wrong context.
- Dogs are not being spiteful or stubborn – they do what works, because that makes sense to them.
- Clear communication through consistent training solves most issues.
- Every dog is trainable with appropriate methods and enough time.
- If you are frustrated or stuck, professional help exists.
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